Sweet doesn’t have to mean heavy. These are the bottles I open at the end of a dinner, with the cheese, or with nothing at all: a Sauternes, a Montbazillac, a late-harvest Pinot Gris from Alsace, two long-aged wines from Roussillon and a sweet from the Languedoc. Serve them cold, in small glasses, and put something salty next to them. Blue cheese is my favourite.